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Har Har Mahadev
04 / 12 · The story

The Story of Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga

The mountain that bowed

A mountain with an inferiority complex did penance until it got a boon, used the boon badly, and was stopped by a sage with a sentence. The shrine it left behind is split across a river and the argument over which half is the jyotirlinga has never been settled.

Omkareshwar, photographed
Photo: Bernard Gagnon · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Who is in it

Vindhya
the mountain range, as a person
Narada
who tells it that Meru is greater
Agastya
the sage who goes south
Mandhata
the Ikshvaku king whose name the island carries
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How it is told

Why is Omkareshwar on an island shaped like ॐ, and why are there two lingams?

The remark that started it

Narada stopped at the Vindhyas and mentioned, in passing and on purpose, that Meru was the greater mountain. The Vindhyas had not thought about it before and could not stop thinking about it afterwards.

Clay from the river

Vindhya came down to the Narmada, made a lingam out of the river clay — a parthiva lingam, the kind anyone can make and nobody needs permission for — and worshipped it for six months. Shiva came as Omkareshwar, lord of the sound Om.

The boon, and what was done with it

Vindhya asked to grow, and grew, and kept growing until the range stood in the sun's path and the south of the country went dark. This is the part of the story that is really about ambition granted without judgement.

One sentence from a passing sage

Agastya came through on his way south and asked the mountain to lie down until he came back past it. Vindhya, who respected him, bowed. Agastya went south and settled there and never came back. The range has been low ever since, and the sun has its road.

The island, and the king

The Narmada splits around a hill here and joins again below it, and the shape the water cuts is read as ॐ from above — which is why the sound and the shrine share a name. The island carries the name of Mandhata, the Ikshvaku king who did his own penance on it.

The half on the other bank

Omkareshwar stands on the island; Mamleshwar, which is Amareshwar, stands across the water on the south bank. Many hold the jyotirlinga to be the two together rather than either alone, and the eight-kilometre parikrama of the island is walked to take in both. Nobody has ever resolved it, and both temples are old enough not to care.

Where the tellings differ

Whether the jyotirlinga is Omkareshwar, Mamleshwar, or the pair is a genuine and old disagreement, and priests at either temple will give you a confident and opposite answer.

◈What is still there. The parikrama is about eight kilometres and crosses the river twice. The Narmada here is wide and slow, and the ॐ is only legible from height or from a map.
If you are goingTimings, booking, how to reach it and what it costs are on the Omkareshwar page.Omkareshwar — the shrine →The bull that would not look backKedarnath · Kedarnath, RudraprayagNext story →