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05 / 12 · The story

The Story of Kedarnath Jyotirlinga

The bull that would not look back

Five brothers came to the Himalaya to be forgiven for a war they had won. Shiva did not want to forgive them, hid in a herd of cattle, and went into the ground when he was recognised. The hump stayed above the surface.

Kedarnath, photographed
Photo: Rohit Sharma · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Who is in it

The Pandavas
five brothers carrying the blood of their own family
Shiva
who takes the form of a bull to avoid them
Bhima
the one who recognises him
05

How it is told

Why is the Kedarnath lingam a hump, and what are the Panch Kedar?

After they had won

Kurukshetra ended with the Pandavas holding the field and the deaths of cousins, teachers and elders on their account. Victory did not clear it. Vyasa told them that only Shiva could, and that they would have to go and ask.

He left rather than refuse them

Shiva did not want to give it. He left Kashi ahead of their arrival and went up into the Himalaya, and the town he passed through is still called Guptkashi — hidden Kashi — for the stop he made there while avoiding them. It is an unusual move for a god in these stories: not a test, not a condition, simply a refusal to be found.

A bull in a herd of cattle

Near Gaurikund he took the form of a bull and mixed himself into a grazing herd, which would have worked on most people. Bhima straddled the valley with a foot on either side and made every animal walk under him. One bull would not, and that was the end of the disguise.

Into the ground

Bhima took hold of the bull by its hump as it went down into the earth, and held on. The body went through. The hump stayed, and that is the stone in the sanctum at Kedarnath — not a carved lingam but a mass of rock, which is why it does not look like the other eleven.

Where the rest of him came up

The remainder surfaced across the Garhwal hills and each place became a shrine: the arms at Tungnath, the face at Rudranath, the navel at Madhyamaheshwar, the hair at Kalpeshwar. With Kedarnath they are the Panch Kedar, and pilgrims who walk all five are completing a body.

Forgiven, in the end

He gave them the absolution he had tried to avoid. The Pandavas are said to have built the first temple here, and Adi Shankara to have restored it centuries later and taken samadhi behind it, where his memorial stands today.

One body, five shrines

What surfaced where, after the bull went into the ground at Kedarnath. Pilgrims who walk all five are putting him back together.

  1. The faceRudranathGarhwal, reached on foot through meadow
  2. The armsTungnathThe highest Shiva temple of the five
  3. The navelMadhyamaheshwarThe middle one, and the quietest
  4. The hairKalpeshwarThe only one open all year
  5. The humpKedarnathThe jyotirlinga, and the stone in the sanctum

What the record says

In June 2013 a flood took most of Kedarnath town and left the temple standing. A large boulder had come to rest just behind it and split the water around the walls; people call it Bhim Shila and it is still there, roped off, a few metres from the back of the shrine.

◈What is still there. The last sixteen kilometres are walked or flown; the road ends at Gaurikund. The temple is open roughly from late April to the first half of November, and the deity winters at Ukhimath.
If you are goingTimings, booking, how to reach it and what it costs are on the Kedarnath page.Kedarnath — the shrine →The son of KumbhakarnaBhimashankar · Khed, Sahyadri HillsNext story →